I generally have pretty low expectations for Forest Hills eateries, as they tend to be of the tired chain or the good-50-years-ago variety. So, when I heard rumors about the high quality of this year-old restaurant, I just had to see (and eat) for myself!
My companion and I walked over to quiet Metropolitan Avenue and saw that the old Dee's space had been converted into a modern, inviting room that resembled the popular 12th Street Bar & Grill in Park Slope. We sat down to some crusty bread and perused the long wine list and Mediterranean-influenced menu.
Immediately, we realized we were in for something other than the typical Forest Hills experience! There was a charcuterie-and-cheese menu, there were entrees like organic chicken under a brick and sides like hand-cut fries. A gentleman behind us was happily nibbling on some Parmigiano Reggiano.
Our gracious, knowledgeable waitress chose a fruity Pinot Noir for us and soon, we started work on a small plate: a delicious cake of salmon tartare, crowned with a dollop of creme fraiche and served with small toasts. We'd almost gone for the grilled calamari, but the tartare was great for sharing.
Next arrived a big bowl of handmade pappardelle in a hearty roasted tomato sauce, topped with shreds of Parmigiano and arugula leaves. The star of the evening was the monkfish: five hunks of chimichurri-crusted, tender fish with garlicky broccoli rape and a couscous accented with pine nuts and red currants. (We couldn't resist checking out everyone else's entree; the burger and the salmon with bacon and lentils looked great too!)
For dessert, we enjoyed the intense red wine poached pear, which came with a small bowl of ultra-rich gorgonzola dolce and cranberry walnut toasts. Next time, we'll end with the buttermilk panna cotta or sweet crepes... or a cheese plate!
Thank you, Danny Brown, for adding such a delight to Forest Hills.
Update: It appears that this restaurant may have to change its name. But no matter what it's called, by all means, try it!
DB Wine Bar & Kitchen: 104-02 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, Queens, (718) 261-2144.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Friday, May 25, 2007
Sweets News
A city that never sleeps needs a place that makes gourmet crepes till 2 a.m., and now NYC has it: Cecel Cafe Crepe (CLOSED as of 2009)! This brand-new shop prepares all ingredients in-house, even going so far as to roast its own almonds. What's on the menu? Everything from Nutella to red bean cinnamon to mango sponge cake crepes! There's not much space, so grab your crepe and Viennese coffee to go, sit outside and watch the East Village wildlife.
Cecel Cafe Crepe: 135 1st Ave., (212) 460-5102. Open Friday & Saturday till 2 a.m.
Cecel Cafe Crepe: 135 1st Ave., (212) 460-5102. Open Friday & Saturday till 2 a.m.
15 East: What Delectable Fish!
Walking past the loud, rambunctious Park Bar and a construction site, I almost missed the elegant, Zen-like oasis of 15 East. "I'm sorry, there's no room at the sushi bar tonight," said the hostess, ruefully, when I entered the room. Although I was crestfallen, I accepted the consolation of a table. And how glad I turned out to be!
Although the cooked entrees looked intriguing (BBQ frog legs, anyone?) I decided to go the traditional route and spring for the $75 three-course sushi/sashimi tasting. (It's $120 if you add kitchen items). The bliss began with tomato "tofu": a cube of rosy gelee tasting of ripe tomato and a bit of bonito, decorated with a tiny sprig of green shiso. In short order came the sashimi course: two pieces each of grey-veined fluke, slightly fatty gruntfish, tender clouds of octopus, slivers of red-tinged shima aji yellowtail, wild salmon, melt-in-your-mouth chu-toro and one sweet jumbo head-on shrimp. Mmm!
The soup course was next (interesting order): a bowl of fragrant bonito consomme with a light puff of yellowtail that resembled a matzo ball. Mitsuba leaves and tiny fragments of enoki mushrooms floated in the clear broth; the soup was as beautiful as it was tasty.
My favorite course arrived on a giant ceramic rectangle: seven pristine, healthy-sized pieces of sushi and three pieces of tuna roll. The sushi consisted of sweet, almost custardy freshwater eel, meaty soft chu-toro, scallion and ginger-topped black-striped needlefish, baby yellowtail, bonito, aji tartare (to be eaten next-to-last, advised the waiter), and soy-marinated tuna. I couldn't resist and added a piece of sea urchin. I would go back to 15 East just for the sea urchin; it was that fresh, creamy, sweet and delicious.
As for dessert, I found the cilantro leaves in the passionfruit pudding confusing, but I loved the scoop of coconut lime sorbet on top.
15 East is now my favorite sushi restaurant in the Union Square area. I've always liked Japonica, but you can't argue with true love.
15 East: 15 East 15th St., (212) 647-0015.
Although the cooked entrees looked intriguing (BBQ frog legs, anyone?) I decided to go the traditional route and spring for the $75 three-course sushi/sashimi tasting. (It's $120 if you add kitchen items). The bliss began with tomato "tofu": a cube of rosy gelee tasting of ripe tomato and a bit of bonito, decorated with a tiny sprig of green shiso. In short order came the sashimi course: two pieces each of grey-veined fluke, slightly fatty gruntfish, tender clouds of octopus, slivers of red-tinged shima aji yellowtail, wild salmon, melt-in-your-mouth chu-toro and one sweet jumbo head-on shrimp. Mmm!
The soup course was next (interesting order): a bowl of fragrant bonito consomme with a light puff of yellowtail that resembled a matzo ball. Mitsuba leaves and tiny fragments of enoki mushrooms floated in the clear broth; the soup was as beautiful as it was tasty.
My favorite course arrived on a giant ceramic rectangle: seven pristine, healthy-sized pieces of sushi and three pieces of tuna roll. The sushi consisted of sweet, almost custardy freshwater eel, meaty soft chu-toro, scallion and ginger-topped black-striped needlefish, baby yellowtail, bonito, aji tartare (to be eaten next-to-last, advised the waiter), and soy-marinated tuna. I couldn't resist and added a piece of sea urchin. I would go back to 15 East just for the sea urchin; it was that fresh, creamy, sweet and delicious.
As for dessert, I found the cilantro leaves in the passionfruit pudding confusing, but I loved the scoop of coconut lime sorbet on top.
15 East is now my favorite sushi restaurant in the Union Square area. I've always liked Japonica, but you can't argue with true love.
15 East: 15 East 15th St., (212) 647-0015.
Friday, May 18, 2007
P*ong: Plated Perfection! (3/2009 CLOSED. A tragedy!!!)
I first encountered the magic of pastry chef Pichet Ong at the "2005 Ten Best Pastry Chefs in America" awards. Two years later, Ong is presiding over a truly inspired menu of sweets and savories at P*ong. Tonight, a friend and I went over for the three-course dessert tasting, and with each course, our excitement built until we absolutely could not wait to see what would come next. We spent most of the evening looking at each other with incredulity and wordless delight.
The counter prep space was stocked with peppers, genmaicha, cardamom pods and ground vanilla beans. I knew this would be a truly stimulating experience! Even the cocktail menu was intriguing, with ingredients like mint oil and organic green apple juice. Although I was curious about the chocolate mojito, I went with some wild mint tea, and my friend ordered a glass of tempranillo.
Our first course was a Meyer lemon shaved ice sprinkled with smoked salt and pepper over a thick layer of unsweetened Vermont mascarpone. Tiny snips of mint leaves decorated the tart, refreshing ice. The dish took my friend back to her childhood, when she used to drill holes in the Meyer lemons from the trees in her yard and suck out the sweet juice. The smoked salt amplified the sweetness of the lemon.
Our taste buds now awakened, we swooned over the chevre cheesecake croquettes. Rolled in chopped walnuts with somewhat of a graham cracker crust taste, the mounds of sweetened cheese lay atop tiny, vanilla-bean-flecked chunks of pineapple compote and a swirl of bittersweet chocolate coulis. Divine!
Next, we dug into a plate of strawberry tea sorbet atop sliced strawberries punctuated with little bits of sugary wasabi candy, and a block of extraordinary white miso ice cream sandwiched between two slices of light, buttery pound cake. The white miso ice cream was as intense and rich as peanut butter, and was also enhanced with a bit of sea salt. (I need to bring home a pint of this!)
Meanwhile, I looked at the group next to us with envy; they'd had the presence of mind to order the five-course dessert tasting, and were happily lapping up a Stilton souffle and arugula ice cream. But soon, an unexpected fourth course erased everything from my mind except pure, unthinking bliss. A "napoleon" of dark chocolate slices layered with rich, creamy sesame spread came with tangy ricotta-mandarin ice cream over a sprinkle of black and white sesame seeds, and a splash of ponzu vinegar caramel and halved edamame. The napoleon was like the best chocolate truffle I've ever eaten.
All of a sudden, a mysterious fifth course arrived! "Pichet just put this on the menu today," explained the host. A cool, velvety chocolate parfait topped with raspberries and drizzled with exotic rosewater blew our minds. "I think I'm having an out-of-body experience!" my friend raved. "There are no words."
Pichet made our day!
(If you want to you want to take some of Pichet Ong's genius home, you can buy a copy of his fascinating book "The Sweet Spot: Asian-Inspired Desserts." Inside, you'll find recipes for Chinese-American cookies and Grand Marnier tofu cheesecake. He'll even sign the book for you!)
P*ong: 150 West 10th St., (212) 929-0898.
The counter prep space was stocked with peppers, genmaicha, cardamom pods and ground vanilla beans. I knew this would be a truly stimulating experience! Even the cocktail menu was intriguing, with ingredients like mint oil and organic green apple juice. Although I was curious about the chocolate mojito, I went with some wild mint tea, and my friend ordered a glass of tempranillo.
Our first course was a Meyer lemon shaved ice sprinkled with smoked salt and pepper over a thick layer of unsweetened Vermont mascarpone. Tiny snips of mint leaves decorated the tart, refreshing ice. The dish took my friend back to her childhood, when she used to drill holes in the Meyer lemons from the trees in her yard and suck out the sweet juice. The smoked salt amplified the sweetness of the lemon.
Our taste buds now awakened, we swooned over the chevre cheesecake croquettes. Rolled in chopped walnuts with somewhat of a graham cracker crust taste, the mounds of sweetened cheese lay atop tiny, vanilla-bean-flecked chunks of pineapple compote and a swirl of bittersweet chocolate coulis. Divine!
Next, we dug into a plate of strawberry tea sorbet atop sliced strawberries punctuated with little bits of sugary wasabi candy, and a block of extraordinary white miso ice cream sandwiched between two slices of light, buttery pound cake. The white miso ice cream was as intense and rich as peanut butter, and was also enhanced with a bit of sea salt. (I need to bring home a pint of this!)
Meanwhile, I looked at the group next to us with envy; they'd had the presence of mind to order the five-course dessert tasting, and were happily lapping up a Stilton souffle and arugula ice cream. But soon, an unexpected fourth course erased everything from my mind except pure, unthinking bliss. A "napoleon" of dark chocolate slices layered with rich, creamy sesame spread came with tangy ricotta-mandarin ice cream over a sprinkle of black and white sesame seeds, and a splash of ponzu vinegar caramel and halved edamame. The napoleon was like the best chocolate truffle I've ever eaten.
All of a sudden, a mysterious fifth course arrived! "Pichet just put this on the menu today," explained the host. A cool, velvety chocolate parfait topped with raspberries and drizzled with exotic rosewater blew our minds. "I think I'm having an out-of-body experience!" my friend raved. "There are no words."
Pichet made our day!
(If you want to you want to take some of Pichet Ong's genius home, you can buy a copy of his fascinating book "The Sweet Spot: Asian-Inspired Desserts." Inside, you'll find recipes for Chinese-American cookies and Grand Marnier tofu cheesecake. He'll even sign the book for you!)
P*ong: 150 West 10th St., (212) 929-0898.
Friday, May 11, 2007
Voila,Tiffin Wallah!
When I'm ravenous, I can think of nothing more appealing than a thali: a variety of tasty Indian dishes served in small bowls on a round tray. The new Tiffin Wallah serves four different kinds: the eponymous Tiffin Wallah, the Gujarathi, the Sapadu (unavailable until the arrival of a new chef, according to the owner) and the South India.
The other day, I ordered the Tiffin Wallah and a friend chose the South India. We had to wait quite a while although the restaurant was almost empty, but we were to find that this wait was due to the utter freshness and loving preparation of the food.
My thali contained a crisp papadum, a buttery folded flatbread, a huge portion of rice pilaf, a cilantro-y, chickpea stew with lots of tomatoes, a creamy spinach curry with fluffy homemade cubes of paneer, salty mango pickles, spicy rasam soup, cooling raita and some comforting rice pudding. I was in heaven. My friend's South India consisted of a giant dosa filled with browned potatoes, an oniony uttapam that resembled a pizza, fried and steamed lentil cakes, lentil dipping sauce, coconut chutney, and some of the best badam halwah I'd ever tasted. This super-rich, warm dessert is basically just butter, almonds, saffron and sugar. It's the texture of baby food, but somehow this only adds to its appeal. Although I preferred my own thali, finding the South India to be quite starch-heavy, I could have eaten an entire bowl of that badam halwah.
Tiffin Wallah: 127 East 28th St., (212) 685-7301.
The other day, I ordered the Tiffin Wallah and a friend chose the South India. We had to wait quite a while although the restaurant was almost empty, but we were to find that this wait was due to the utter freshness and loving preparation of the food.
My thali contained a crisp papadum, a buttery folded flatbread, a huge portion of rice pilaf, a cilantro-y, chickpea stew with lots of tomatoes, a creamy spinach curry with fluffy homemade cubes of paneer, salty mango pickles, spicy rasam soup, cooling raita and some comforting rice pudding. I was in heaven. My friend's South India consisted of a giant dosa filled with browned potatoes, an oniony uttapam that resembled a pizza, fried and steamed lentil cakes, lentil dipping sauce, coconut chutney, and some of the best badam halwah I'd ever tasted. This super-rich, warm dessert is basically just butter, almonds, saffron and sugar. It's the texture of baby food, but somehow this only adds to its appeal. Although I preferred my own thali, finding the South India to be quite starch-heavy, I could have eaten an entire bowl of that badam halwah.
Tiffin Wallah: 127 East 28th St., (212) 685-7301.
Wednesday, May 09, 2007
A New Option at Yankee Stadium
As if the news about the Rocket's return weren't exciting enough, here's something else for a Yankee fan to celebrate! When you're sitting in nosebleed with the sun beating down, and you thirst for something other than a Coke, the new Salsa On The Go stand will satisfy you with fresh mango, passionfruit and guava drinks. If you're hungry, there are Cuban sandwiches, empanadas, arroz con pollo and sweet plantains. The-e-e.... YANKEES WIN!!!!
Salsa On The Go: Yankee Stadium Food Court, Section 20.
Salsa On The Go: Yankee Stadium Food Court, Section 20.
Saturday, May 05, 2007
Soto Japanese Restaurant
Note: The below review was controversial. We remind you that it details one particular couple's experience on one night; many diners have had a fabulous experience at Soto (read the Village Voice and Time Out NY reviews). We urge the reader to visit Soto himself and make his own informed decision. We had to disable comments because they got out of hand.
My companion and I really wanted to love Soto. We're always thrilled when a new Japanese restaurant opens, and we were excited to try the innovative cuisine of Chef Sotohiro Kosugi - so excited that we dined at his restaurant just one day after it opened.
Unfortunately, we were to leave Soto with both empty stomachs and empty wallets.
The evening started out promising; we marveled at the transformation of the old Ony Noodle Shop space into an elegant room with stone floors and blond wood. Although the omakase was not yet available, the waitress happily made some recommendations: shima aji carpaccio, dobin mushi, uni sugomori and langoustines.
We were under the mistaken impression that the menu was divided into appetizers and entrees. All portions turned out to be the size of a small appetizer. So, after we were finished with the four recommended dishes, we felt compelled to order four more, as well as some assorted sushi. This was to cost us a pretty penny!
The broiled langoustine, split in two, squeezed with lime and covered with shiitake mayonnaise, was delicious. Dobin mushi was a light, yuzu-laced broth served in a ceramic teapot in which floated a piece of sea bream, a shrimp, a shiitake cap, two bright green gingko nuts and a leaf of mitsuba. We really loved the uni sugomori: bright orange, fresh sea urchin mixed with yellow quail yolk was a rich delight. Chu-toro tartare was topped with a velvety avocado mousse, and gindara sakekasu (black cod marinated in sake lees) was sweet and tasty. The presentation of shima aji carpaccio was beautiful; 12 slices of paper-thin yellowjack tuna were arranged to look like a many-petaled flower, and the fish was drizzled with ginger-truffle soy sauce. Tempura was a delicate (and small) array of Japanese eggplant, shrimp, squash and lotus root. But although this sounds like a lot of food, it wasn't!
Still hungry, we raided the sushi bar, ordering fresh sea eel, seared salmon, salmon roe and a tuna roll. We were surprised at the dyed pink ginger and commercial soy sauce... places like Sushi Yasuda are sticklers for those ingredients.
In conclusion, although we found the dishes artfully presented and inventive, we would have eaten better (and probably spent less) at Jewel Bako, En, Megu or Sushi Yasuda. (And we we miss filling up on big bowls of ramen at Ony!)
Edited to add: I've apparently ruffled a few Atlantans' feathers with this review. I in no way intended to offend, and I wish Mr. Kosugi the best of luck, as he does have an exquisite touch with cooked foods. Obviously, my reference to Ony is somewhat facetious, as I realize Soto is a high-end restaurant. However, if a diner is going to spend $200+ on a meal, he ought not to leave hungry. And if a chef is going to serve sushi at $7 a piece, that piece of sushi deserves undyed ginger and artisanal shoyu. (I am puzzled at the lack of a sushi or sashimi "set" as is customary in many sushi bars.) Finally, I in no way claim to be an expert on Japanese food, but I have spent considerable time in Japan, and have eaten at almost every Japanese restaurant in NYC. It's my favorite cuisine!
Soto: 357 Sixth Ave., (212) 414-3088.
My companion and I really wanted to love Soto. We're always thrilled when a new Japanese restaurant opens, and we were excited to try the innovative cuisine of Chef Sotohiro Kosugi - so excited that we dined at his restaurant just one day after it opened.
Unfortunately, we were to leave Soto with both empty stomachs and empty wallets.
The evening started out promising; we marveled at the transformation of the old Ony Noodle Shop space into an elegant room with stone floors and blond wood. Although the omakase was not yet available, the waitress happily made some recommendations: shima aji carpaccio, dobin mushi, uni sugomori and langoustines.
We were under the mistaken impression that the menu was divided into appetizers and entrees. All portions turned out to be the size of a small appetizer. So, after we were finished with the four recommended dishes, we felt compelled to order four more, as well as some assorted sushi. This was to cost us a pretty penny!
The broiled langoustine, split in two, squeezed with lime and covered with shiitake mayonnaise, was delicious. Dobin mushi was a light, yuzu-laced broth served in a ceramic teapot in which floated a piece of sea bream, a shrimp, a shiitake cap, two bright green gingko nuts and a leaf of mitsuba. We really loved the uni sugomori: bright orange, fresh sea urchin mixed with yellow quail yolk was a rich delight. Chu-toro tartare was topped with a velvety avocado mousse, and gindara sakekasu (black cod marinated in sake lees) was sweet and tasty. The presentation of shima aji carpaccio was beautiful; 12 slices of paper-thin yellowjack tuna were arranged to look like a many-petaled flower, and the fish was drizzled with ginger-truffle soy sauce. Tempura was a delicate (and small) array of Japanese eggplant, shrimp, squash and lotus root. But although this sounds like a lot of food, it wasn't!
Still hungry, we raided the sushi bar, ordering fresh sea eel, seared salmon, salmon roe and a tuna roll. We were surprised at the dyed pink ginger and commercial soy sauce... places like Sushi Yasuda are sticklers for those ingredients.
In conclusion, although we found the dishes artfully presented and inventive, we would have eaten better (and probably spent less) at Jewel Bako, En, Megu or Sushi Yasuda. (And we we miss filling up on big bowls of ramen at Ony!)
Edited to add: I've apparently ruffled a few Atlantans' feathers with this review. I in no way intended to offend, and I wish Mr. Kosugi the best of luck, as he does have an exquisite touch with cooked foods. Obviously, my reference to Ony is somewhat facetious, as I realize Soto is a high-end restaurant. However, if a diner is going to spend $200+ on a meal, he ought not to leave hungry. And if a chef is going to serve sushi at $7 a piece, that piece of sushi deserves undyed ginger and artisanal shoyu. (I am puzzled at the lack of a sushi or sashimi "set" as is customary in many sushi bars.) Finally, I in no way claim to be an expert on Japanese food, but I have spent considerable time in Japan, and have eaten at almost every Japanese restaurant in NYC. It's my favorite cuisine!
Soto: 357 Sixth Ave., (212) 414-3088.
Grom Gelato
"This is the line for gelato?" was the recurring comment people threw in my direction. The line, which I'd been waiting in for an hour and a half, stretched past Big Nick's Burgers, Jubilee, Beard Papa and Lush, to end at Grom, which was celebrating its grand opening in New York by offering free gelato. "Yes, this is the line," I sighed wearily. "Nuts," was the inevitable response.
People coped with the wait in different ways. Some enjoyed the passing spectacle of strollers and dogs. (Some onlookers, taking pity on us, even offered their dogs for petting so that we'd have something to do while we waited.) I was entertained by the creative rantings of a lunatic ("Merry Passover! Merry Passover!" shouted a bearded man. But was he any more insane than people who'd wait 2 hours for a cup of gelato?). I saw some people give up and walk away, and others cut in line.
Finally, after 2 hours of achy feet and various conversations with strangers about Havanese dogs and Hillary's presidential prospects, I reached the end of the line... to find that the extra-dark chocolate was... all gone.
I scratched my head. How could this be? It's not like there weren't other enticing selections; I saw regular chocolate, stracciatella, strawberries and cream, hazelnut, cappuccino, gianduja. There were also a few flavors of sorbetto and Sicilian granita. But ever since I got addicted to Capogiro's cioccolato scuro, I simply must have the deepest, darkest chocolate gelato!
Well, I settled for the regular chocolate with a side of fior di latte. The chocolate was really quite chocolatey, almost like semi-frozen fudge. I dare say it was chocolatey enough even for me. And the milky, silky fior di latte was the most luscious sweet cold cream.
I'll be back to Grom soon; I just hope the line lessens a little!
Grom Gelato: 2165 Broadway, (646) 290-7233.
People coped with the wait in different ways. Some enjoyed the passing spectacle of strollers and dogs. (Some onlookers, taking pity on us, even offered their dogs for petting so that we'd have something to do while we waited.) I was entertained by the creative rantings of a lunatic ("Merry Passover! Merry Passover!" shouted a bearded man. But was he any more insane than people who'd wait 2 hours for a cup of gelato?). I saw some people give up and walk away, and others cut in line.
Finally, after 2 hours of achy feet and various conversations with strangers about Havanese dogs and Hillary's presidential prospects, I reached the end of the line... to find that the extra-dark chocolate was... all gone.
I scratched my head. How could this be? It's not like there weren't other enticing selections; I saw regular chocolate, stracciatella, strawberries and cream, hazelnut, cappuccino, gianduja. There were also a few flavors of sorbetto and Sicilian granita. But ever since I got addicted to Capogiro's cioccolato scuro, I simply must have the deepest, darkest chocolate gelato!
Well, I settled for the regular chocolate with a side of fior di latte. The chocolate was really quite chocolatey, almost like semi-frozen fudge. I dare say it was chocolatey enough even for me. And the milky, silky fior di latte was the most luscious sweet cold cream.
I'll be back to Grom soon; I just hope the line lessens a little!
Grom Gelato: 2165 Broadway, (646) 290-7233.
Friday, May 04, 2007
Maoz Vegetarian
What do you get when you cross a falafel stand with a salad bar? Maoz Vegetarian, the first NYC outpost of a popular European falafel chain. Fill your whole wheat pita with a variety of ultra-fresh veggie salads (pickled baby eggplants, sliced mushrooms and more), sauces and falafel. If falafel's not your thing, you can always go with a feta, hummus or baba ganoush sandwich (only $3.75!). Or, if your vegetarian pal has dragged you kicking and screaming into Maoz when you wanted to eat at brgr, console yourself with some tasty Belgian fries.
Maoz Vegetarian: 38 Union Square East, (212) 260-1988.
Maoz Vegetarian: 38 Union Square East, (212) 260-1988.
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